I bet many of you wondered if we would ever again produce a newsletter! Just to summarize this situation, remember our service provider had some problems, which prevented us from accessing our web site. So Rob switched providers. However until recently, we were still unable to put the site back up. The technicalities are just a little beyond me, but the bottom line is that we are up and running now.
In about 7 weeks we will be up and running to First Manassas. So this newsletter will contain some information to help you prepare for that event. Please read through the articles and contact me if you have questions.
Following our fight in Virginia our company will have an active fall campaign. Like last year Company G members John Keahey, Mike Covington , and Jon Bonin have been meeting with the George Ranch in order to plan the Civil War area for Texian Market Days. This newsletter contains some information on that event. Take it from me, this will be like no other TMD we have ever experienced!
Of course following TMD we will march off to Liendo Plantation in Hempstead, Texas. Our regiment is involved in the planning of the event this year. That should mean an improvement in the camps and the fighting. Make sure you have marked your calendar for this one.
The year will close with the Brigade muster at Dickens on the Strand. This event is a fun event. Last year we had about seven Rifles attend over two days. Maybe this time we can hit ten or eleven. It will be worth a trip to Galveston if your busy holiday schedule will allow the time. HO HO HO
Winedale will close out our scheduled year. As always I look forward to this event as much as any all year long. Many old friends manage to get to Winedale who can’t always get into the field as much as they would like. So make sure it is on your schedule. There is talk of a serious round of war gaming. Pelham Keahey is ready to show his tactical knowledge. Maybe he could share some of that with me. If you were at the fight on Sunday at Raymond, you will understand my need for tactical improvement. Arrrgggh.
To the Tyrant Never Yield
Chris Strzelecki
Captain, Texas Rifles
Well, the summer is almost over and we now turn our attention to the fall campaign season. And our first event back will be Manassas! With the spring season that we had (events cancelled, bad weather, poor attendance, etc.) I have a feeling the rust is going to be fairly thick when we fall in to that first formation at Manassas 30+ strong! So, lets get real basic and talk about the glue that holds everything we do together. Spacing and alignment.
Being in the proper place in line, and maintaining the proper spacing, is crucial to being a well-drilled company. Even though this is one of the most basic things we learn, it is also the one that we seem to get sloppy on after long periods of inactivity.
When we first form up, we dress ourselves so that everyone is in the right place and that the spacing we have is correct. With arms at the side, each man is dressed to the point where his right elbow is touching the left elbow of the man on his right, and so it goes down the line. Furthermore, we look to the right as we do this to insure that we are not slightly in front of or slightly behind this man to our right. We have a straight line with all shoulders square and even, both front and rear rank.
We also make sure that the rear rank is the right distance from to front rank. 13 inches. You hear it constantly, "Thirteen inches rear rank!". The distance can be easily gauged by tucking the elbow in at the side and making a fist. The distance your arm extends away from your body is about 13 inches, so your knuckles should be touching the man in front of you. We always start off this way, but then what happens? That’s right, we move!
Moving causes lots of problems with our wonderfully formed company. Gaps are created, alignment gets off, and the thing to remember about all of this is that problems in the line increase exponentially as the ripple of rustiness works its way down. So, lets just review the basic things we can all do to keep the proper spacing and alignment.
The first thing to remember is where you are in the line of battle. When we form up, it is always in a line of battle and that is the starting point for everything. After we form up, we will most likely be doing a right or left face. So, try and make a habit of repeating your number to yourself and make a mental note of exactly where you are every time we form up. "I am a front rank number 1 man and I am standing to the left of Cpl. Wolford. If we do a right face, I will not pick up my feet, I will simply pivot to the right on my heels." You are now ready to hold your position. Or maybe your mental dialogue is, "I am a front rank number two man and I am to the left of Pvt. Covington. If we do a right face, I will step over and to the right so that I am standing next to him, but on his right side instead of his left."
The key here is footwork. The front rank number one men do not pick up or shuffle their feet in any way. If they do, the line gets off. These guys are the line "anchors" and we could do a series of "right face, front, right face, front" over and over again and if these guys are doing what they are supposed to, the line will always be perfect.
The next basic key is the spacing we have when we right face. Once again, front rank number one guys are the key here. You are the man on the far left or your file, and the other three guys are dressing off of you. Once we do a right face, look at the distance between you and the file in front of you. Just about arms length, right. Good, keep it that way. If you keep the right distance and the other men in your file stay dressed on you, then when we halt and front, everything is grand. But often times, this is not the case. You fall a little bit behind, and so does the file behind you and the one behind them, etc. Then what happens, we halt and front and we have about a total of 6 - 12 feet of gaps between the front rank men and we have to right dress to get our alignment back. This is a very simple thing, but how many times do we have to dress the line after halting the column and fronting. That’s right, way too much.
We touched on the rear rank already, now lets talk about maintaining that 13 inches and using the proper footwork when we are firing. This is the most important because it is directly related to how safe we are. If you are in the rear rank, anytime we front the company, your first thought she be "13 inches". Every time, without exception. You must maintain that 13 inches and not fall back, and sadly, this is the mistake we make the most. The second important consideration is this. Loading and firing footwork is designed so that one foot is always anchoring your place in line (usually this is the left foot unless we are doing a right oblique). Remember that. One foot does not move, and it holds your exact place in line. This goes for loading and any standing firing position. What I usually see from behind the lines when I am watching is the rear rank shuffling around when they are loading and not stepping over that half step with the right foot when we are firing. THIS IS NOT SAFE! Pure and simple.
As usual, when we get to Manassas, we will go over these basic things, but if you fall in and are already thinking about spacing and alignment, we will be way ahead of the game. I hope and look forward to seeing all of you in the field come August.
Rob Williamson
I need your money for registration and rations for Manassas.
Registration $15
Rations $25
Make your check out to the Texas Rifles and send it to me as soon as possible. General King would like the registrations complete by the end of June.
The Manassas Event is the perfect time to reach deep into the reenacting closet and pull-out some of the items from your reenacting youth that you might be ashamed to use in your more mature reenacting years.
For those of you who tuned in late, The First Battle of Manassas (Bull Run to you Federals out there) was fought on July 21, 1861 a few mails from the railroad town of Manassas, Virginia. It was the first major battle between the newly formed Federal and Confederate armies. Neither side was prepared, neither side was properly disciplined, neither side thought that a second battle would be fought over the same ground a year later, and neither side thought the war would last four bloody years even in their worst nightmare.
Both armies were largely composed of short time volunteer militia regiments. The few regular US army units present were held in reserve by the Union commander. Of course, the southern army had no regular units. The northern army was composed of low number regiments wear a kaleidoscopic array of uniforms; including gray and foreign style uniforms, such as zouave, that were used by both sides. The superior resources of the northern states were already a factor; the northern army entered the battle with larger numbers and superior equipment.
The “uniform” situation was worse on the Confederate side. Few Confederate units had a common regimental uniform. Most pre-war militia companies determined their own uniforms and worn them after volunteering for Confederate service. These militia companies were generally accepted intact as companies of newly formed regiments. The militia uniforms were intended primarily for show, not service in the field. They ranged in design from imitation US regular army frock coats to jackets, battle shirts and costumes straight out of the American Revolution. So, the usual ten company southern regiment had ten, or more, completely different uniforms in its ranks. Southern officers often dressed in their pre-war blue uniforms.
What does this mean for the 7th Louisiana Volunteer Infantry that we will be portraying? Firstly, uniformity should be approached on a company, as opposed to regimental, level. Companies that can field men in something other than a late war Richmond Depot (which didn’t exist yet) Type III Jacket are desirable. Alternative uniforms could include simple battle shirts, gray or blue frock coats. The choice of a forage cap covered by a havelock is a good one. Any color or design forage cap or kepi will do. Trousers should display more uniformity than the usual mid-war mix we display, so bring-out the sky blue kerseys. Louisiana issued white gaiters to their troops throughout the entire war, so the white canvas gaiters planned by the regiment is a good idea. All officers and sergeants should wear sashes and swords.
Muskets other than the Enfield pattern are preferred. If you have access to another functional period long arm, use that. Flintlocks are fine and smoothbore muskets would have been more common than rifled muskets at this time. Personal weapons such as Bowie knives and pistols are encouraged. Accoutrements should be of US pattern and pre-war. Just as extensive imports of Enfield muskets had not reached our shores yet, neither had British manufactured knapsacks, cartridge boxes, or bayonet scabbards. If possible, use white buff leather waist and shoulder belts. White buff leather straps were regulation in the armed forces from the time of the American Revolution until 1855; only six years before the war started. Photographs of soldiers taken early in the war often show them wearing white buff leather equipment.
Just as in the uniforms, there would have been little commonality in the haversacks, knapsacks, canteens, and blankets in use. Shortages had yet to plagued the South; so most soldiers had a full kit. The painted cloth haversack was a relatively new item of issue. Most haversacks prior to the painted design were made of unpainted cotton canvas and closed with one or more buttons. This allowed them to be washed periodically. Homemade haversacks would be common. The early war period is the one of the few times when a knapsack is more authentic for Confederate soldiers than a blanket roll. Frame knapsacks would be much more prevalent than later in the war. Tentage would have been of all patterns EXCEPT the shelter tent. The first shelter tents were not issued to Federal soldiers until the year after the First Battle of Manassas. Tents, at this point in the war, were large multi-man designs carried in the regimental wagons from camp to camp.
The Manassas reenactment, like Wilson’s Creek last year, is set in a different time for the southern and northern reenactors. The centralized massive efforts to feed, uniform and equipment large citizen armies were in the future. Standards, or even government-issue items other than weapons, were almost unknown. The soldier provided just about everything but his weapon, and sometimes even that. This provides us with an opportunity to portray the southern soldier in a very different way.
John M. Keahey, 6/23/01
The regiment will portray the Seventh Louisiana for First Manassas. So start researching the role of the regiment in that battle. We can get out another newsletter before the event, and we would be happy to include any articles you may choose to write for the event.
A specific uniform marks this early war event. There is no way we can all create the exact uniform for this event. So what follows is a MINIMUM impression for this unit.
Jacket: Our new 1st Texas jackets are just fine as well as our western impression. I believe the troops actually wore frock coats!
Hat: Federal or Confederate Kepi or Forage Cap. Either of these is fine as long as you wear a havelock. They are made of white canvas. They look kind of like what actors wore in old French Foreign Legion films. I do not “jest , Beau” Arrrghh….
Pants: Gray military pants or civilian pants of any color.
Gaiters: The 7th wore gaiters. They are also made of white canvas. Buckles or buttons are OK.
Haversacks: Painted haversacks are not part of our impression this time. So if you don’t have a white canvas haversack, you need to make one or purchase one.
You have several options for these items:
1. purchase from the regimental quartermaster through Jack King.
2. Purchase from any sutler
3. Make you own
4. See if John Keahey has the time to make you all or some of these items. Time will be a problem. Call John and find out.
Regimental prices:
Federal Forage Caps: $25 ( Keahey’s are better, think twice about this)
Haversacks: $14 , made from white canvas
Gaiters: $25 , 5 buttons , small – medium – large
Havelocks $7, white canvas
The 7th Louisiana Volunteers, sometimes called the Pelican Regiment, were mustered into service for the duration of the war on June 5, 1861. Though composed mainly of farmers, laborers, and clerks, Gen. Richard Taylor referred to the 7th as a "crack regiment". The original colonel of the regiment was Harry T. Hays, who went on to become a distinguished general with the 7th coming under the command of his lieutenant colonel, Davidson B. Penn for the remainder of the war.
The ten companies were raised in and around the city of New Orleans but of the 974 known birthplaces from the muster rolls, only 373 men were native-born Louisianans. 331 men were born in Ireland, and 179 in other states along with almost 50 Germans, 24 Englishmen. Other ethnic groups included Canadians, French, Swiss, Scots, and Swedes. Of the total wartime rolls of 1,077 men, 190 were killed and 68 died of disease. The regiment suffered only a ten percent desertion rate, a trivial number when compared with other regiments with such diverse ethnic backgrounds.
At Winedale Company G voted to approve the new Uniform and Equipment Regulations, as published in our newsletter and discussed extensively among the members. In its heart, the new regulations establish a mid-war eastern theater impression for us. The biggest change will be in the uniform jacket. We are switching from the western theater Department of Alabama Depot (DOT) jacket to the eastern theater Richmond Depot Type II (RD2) jacket. The RD2 was issued from April of 1862 to June of 1864 from the Richmond (duh) Virginia Clothing Depot.
Who is required to purchase the new jacket?
All new members are required to purchase the RD2 jackets. Members voted into full membership prior to Winedale 2001 are not required to purchase the new jackets; existing authentic DOT jackets are acceptable.
Can I buy a new jacket from a sutler?
NO! There is no sutler that can sell you this jacket, period. The unit has adopted a jeans cloth for the jacket not found on sutler’s row. Using a distinctive unit cloth will give Company G two great advantages; the first advantage is uniformity. With the unit controlling the cloth, all the new jackets will be uniform in fabric and cut. The unit will look as if the jackets were issued to us as opposed to being randomly selected from an 1860’s garage sale. Second, having control of the jacket production means that we control quality. The new jackets will be made to a much higher standard than previous uniforms.
Where do I get the cloth?
Company G has purchased 50 yards of the new fabric. That should be enough for twenty jackets. In order to purchase this minimum fabric run of fifty yards the company and individuals contributed the purchase and shipping costs. The individuals who have purchased fabric can pick theirs up from John Keahey after it arrives. It is due momentarily. Fabric owned by the unit will be sold to members at cost; that is about $16.00/yard. A jacket will require two and one half yards ($40) of jeans material to fit an average size man. The jacket will also require eleven buttons, facing cloth for the front and collar, an authentic RD2 pattern (the County Cloth pattern is recommended), and period osnaburg lining. These items are not stocked by the unit.
Where can I get a jacket made?
If you have the skills, you can make your own, but the finished product must be comparable to the other jackets in the unit. The jacket should be machine sewn and hand finished. This means hand done topstitching and buttonholes. Three unit members are prepared to make jackets for members; John Keahey, Frank Marek and Phil Sozansky. Contact one of them to get a correctly made , high quality jacket. The basic price will be the same, $175. Don’t make this new jacket even more expensive by screwing-up; get the jacket made by one of the members listed above. If you attempt to have someone else sew it, make sure they use the correct jeans fabric, buttons, lining, finishing techniques, and pattern.
John Keahey, 6/23/2001
We have some very exciting changes planned for the 2001 Texian Market Days to be held on October 20 and 21.
The Federals and Confederates will make camp in the same places as last year. We will use the open field for drilling and firing demonstrations. We are planning one battle each day for the public and one tacticle battle Sunday morning just for the reenactors. The battles will be held out by the sharecroppers cabin. The ranch is going to plant a large corn field for us to fight in. The corn will be planted in time for it to be mature and ready for us to forage the corn. It should be about six feet tall.
The issued rations will be a little different this year as well. The Federals will be issued hardtack, bacon, apples and coffee. The Confederates will be issued cornbread, bacon, apples and coffee. The rations will be distributed each day and will be in period containers. We will still have the Saturday night BBQ.
Another attraction to the Civil War area will be a 32 pound coastal gun. The ranch will construct a fortification for the gun. The gun will not be used in the battles, but to demonstrate coastal batteries used in Texas. The gun was used in the movie “Glory”.
We should have quite a few more Federals this year. The 13th U.S. will be returning for both days. The 26th Illinois out of Austin will be attending. We have also contacted the 1st U.S. about coming out.
Mike Covington
Each company in the 1st Texas will draw their resupply rounds, while on campaign, from the Regimental Ordinance Department. This is being done so that the wagons will not have to carry a dozen ammunition boxes, one or two for each company. In order to accomplish this Company G will continue to roll ammunition in each region. However, we will need to make our rounds just like the regimental rounds. For the most part they are very similar. There are a few differences. See the note below from Jack Ziegler about how to make uniform cartridges and arsenal packs. I am relying on each region to begin rolling ammo in this fashion. When we get to events we will surrender our ammo in exchange for “ammunition chits”. These will be held by the 1st Sergeant until needed in battle. As always , those who do not roll ammunition will need to pay for the “chits” they receive. The cost will be $4 a pack.
We use newsprint paper sized as follows for tubes:
Long base = 4.16"
Short base = 2.5"
Height = 3.75"
We use 0.5" diam dowel rod for rolling form with one end drilled out about 1/4 in. to push crimped end of paper in to. From the drilled out end we draw a circle around the form 3 and 3/16" up from the recessed end. When we roll the paper we push it up so the top of the tube is at the mark to give the right amount of paper to roll into a tit in the centre which is pushed down in the the recess before tapping the crimp on the table to set the crimp.
We use brown wrapping paper cut to 7" by 7" sheets to pack the cartridges and tie with thick cotton cord or thin jute cord.
We use open end boxes 2 1/2" across with about 0.8 high sides to package in.
We use a two inch deep board with at least 10 holes drilled nearly to the bottom for use as a loading block. The holes should be large enough to easily fit the tubes in to hold vertical.
We use powder measures made to hold between 66 to 70 gr. powder.
If you have questions don't hesitate to ask. It is a lot easier for me to show than to tell in words.
Please remind me of the time again and tell me how to get there,
We will cover field replenishment cartridges (not simulated) to start with. I would like to watch everyone we certify roll and pack at least a couple of packs to make sure they are consistently like all the cartridges. Hopefully no can tell the difference between cartridges rolled by any certified roller. We haven't had any problems so far.
Yours,
Jack
The Good
I have always been a fan of linseed oil. Linseed oil is natural oil derived from the flax plant. It is inedible, so you can’t drink or cook with it, but other than that it is great stuff. As the flax plant has been known to civilization for several millennia (linen cloth is produced from flax stalks) linseed oil is an authentic 19th century (and 18th century and 17th century and 16th century and…) product. It chief uses were to weatherproof wood and as a base for paints.
I have used and advocated the use of linseed oil on gunstocks for several decades now. Most reproduction guns these days come with a “satin” finish on their gunstocks. This means that the wood has been coated with a polyurethane finish. This is not authentic. All US military and many civilian firearms were furnished with unstained and unlacquered wood gunstocks. Civilian firearms makers used decorative woods such as curly maple on their weapons. An oiled finish allowed the natural beauty of the wood to show through.
Military gunmakers typically used walnut for stocks. In the US the wood of choice was from the American Black Walnut tree. As the name implies, this tree furnishes a dark wood that is also strong and workable by tools. Soldiers were told to oil the gunstocks with linseed or sperm whale oil. As whale products are currently illegal in the United States, linseed is the oil of choice for our gunstocks. It is cheap, readily available, plentiful, and has the minor added benefit of being legal. Multiple applications of linseed oil produces a stock impervious to moisture.
The Bad
As pointed out above, you can’t eat, drink, smoke or sniff linseed oil. Linseed oil is a toxic substance. In short, it is NOT a good idea to use it to prevent rust on your cooking gear. Linseed oil attracts and holds dust and dirt. This is why a gunstock finished with linseed darkens over time. The oil retains particles of whatever it comes into contact with. Personally, I like a dark gunstock and so this natural process does not bother me. Linseed oil is also not the best rust preventive for metal. Use Three-in-one, WD-40, or Break Free on the metal parts of your weapons. These oils are designed to penetrate and protect metals and they do not leave a yellowish gummy residue on the metal surface.
The Downright Ugly
Linseed oil is flammable. Not only does it burn; it can start burning spontaneously. Linseed oil does not need help from little Johnny armed with a purloined book of matches in order to start a fire. It is fully capable of doing it all by itself. The label on my can of linseed oil states that this product generates heat during the drying process. Rags soaked in linseed oil should repetitively washed until the oil is removed. Otherwise they can burst into flame.
Recently the George Ranch Historical Park (GRHP) was the unwilling host to a live demonstration of the spontaneously combustible nature of linseed oil. Near the cabin on the Jones Stock Farm portion of the GRHP is a timber frame over a sawpit. In order to protect the unfinished timbers of the sawpit from decay they were liberally painted with linseed oil. Early one evening after this was done Debbie Long stayed late after closing in order to care for some livestock. She discovered the saw pit timbers burning and the fire spreading towards the cabin through the dry grass. Only her quick action saved the pioneer area from destruction. Now I have never heard of a gunstock spontaneously bursting into flame, but neither I am anxious to now use linseed oil on my deck or arbor.
Period ordnance manuals give the formulas for paints, including black paint for painted equipment such as knapsacks and haversacks. The formula calls for 73 out of 100 parts by weight of the black paint to be linseed oil. Robert Serio is an experienced reenactor who now has a business making custom shoes and equipment for others. Several years ago Serio began an advertising campaign stating that he, and only he, used the authentic paint formula on his painted haversacks and knapsacks. Then he abruptly stopped advertising his use of authentic paint. The reason he stopped using the authentic paint formula is because the local fire marshal informed him that equipment painted with linseed oil based paint would give-off toxic fumes, and that these fumes could accumulate in an enclosed space, like a car trunk, and be ignited.
Frankly, I didn’t really believe the toxic fumes part of this story, until two days ago. I have used a painted canvas blanket for years as a ground cloth and rain protection. As the paint was faking from the folds I decided to coat the painted blanket with linseed oil as a restorative. For a week I dried that cloth out of doors in ventilated areas to reduce fumes. Two days ago I spread this dried cloth on the grass in the full sun. The blanket was dry at this point, but I wanted to be certain that it was de-gassed. The grass beneath where I spread the painted cloth is now sickly and dying. The grass blade tips are brown. Toxic fumes from the linseed-coated canvas was killing the grass. The Painted Black Blanket of Doom had struck! My wife is not amused with the perfect rectangle of brown grass in the midst of our otherwise green backyard, or that I would use such an item equipment and keep it in the house.
The morale of the story is that I don’t recommend using linseed oil for anything other than gunstocks. Linseed oil, depending upon the application, can be good, bad, or downright ugly!
John M. Keahey, 6/23/01
Due to Lee's busy job schedule (he is currently working in Italy), he is going to sell his gear and get out for a while. His "stuff" is as follows:
ITEMS FOR SALE
LEE GOODELL
WEAPONS
Armisport 1853 .58 cal Enfield- $300.00
Armisport .58 cal Calvary carbine- $60.00
Enfield bayonet w/scabbard- $45.00
UNIFORMS
Federal sack coat 44 reg- $30.00
Shell jacket jean wool gray 44reg- $50.00
Blue kersey trousers 34 reg- $50.00
Butternut kerseys 34 reg- $40.00
Brogans size 9 rough side out- $40.00
Kepi union- $15.00
kepi jean wool confederate- $25.00
ACCOUTRAMENTS
Cartridge box w/ Texas star plate- $35.00
Cap box- $15.00
US issue belt w/Texas star buckle- $35.00
Carttridge box sling w/breast plate- $15.00
Leather sling for Enfield- $10.00
Cloth sling for Enfield- $3.50
Cloth rifle case for Enfield- $8.00
Holster/pistol belt for Remington (black)- $20.00
Federal haversack(tarred)- $20.00
Bullseye canteen, Kersey blue- $25.00
Tin cup (lrg)- $3.50
Tin plate (9in)- $5.00
Drum canteen (metal)- $15.00
Blanket, gray, wool- $30.00
Blanket, Butternut, wool- $30.00
Gum blanket- $25.00
Knapsack, Federal, tarred-$50.00
Smoking cap- $7.00.
Kepi, Union 7 3/8- $15.00
PRICES ARE NON-NEGOTIABLE
ITEMS ARE IN GOOD CONDITION AND WORTH WHAT I'M ASKING FOR
THEM. THE DO HOWEVER SHOW TYPICAL FIELD WEAR WHICH MAKES
FOR A GOOD IMPRESSION.
If interested please contact myself or my wife at 281-398-1228 or email at lgoodell@swbell.net. I live in Katy. Thanks
Brady Williams has contacted me about selling his gear. At Winedale a number of his items were sold. However some things do remain: Enfield Musket: $300 (missing front sight). Cartridge Box, cap box, bayonet and scabbard, tin cup, pants and shirt pattern: Contact Chris for prices on these items. Also, check out the new CLASSIFIED section of the website and post anything you want to sell to Rob Williamson at rhwillia@sprynet.com.
The following contacts produce or sell goods of the finest quality. They are the recommended source of supply for members of the Texas Rifles.
John Keahey:
2810 West Pebble Beach
Missouri City, TX 77459
281-261-0665
Shell jackets, uniforms, leather gear
Gaye Frazer
5641 Yale Blvd, Ste 125
Dallas ,Texas 75206
214-696-1865
fax 214-361-9720
www.frazerbrothers.com
Jean Cloth & Period Fabrics
Thistle Hill Weavers
Rd #2, Box 75,
Cherry Valley, NY13320
518-284-2729
Charles Childs
13979 – C Georgetown St. NE
Paris, Ohio 44669
216-862-3307
Ready Made Shell Jackets
Terri Parker
738 Currey Rd.
Nashville, TN 37217
615-361-8765
Ask for Alabama Depot Style in gray brown jean
Hats
Clear Water Hat Company
Bob & Kaye Brewer
Box 202,
Newnata, AR 72680
5017464324
Leather and Paper Goods
Dixie Leather Works
P.O. Box 8221
Paducah, KY 42002-8221
800-888-5183
Custom Made Brogans
Robert Serio
Missouri Boot and Shoe Co.
Rt. 7, Box 207
Neosho, Mo.
417-451-6100
General Merchandise
Fall Creek Sutlery
P.O. Box 539
Freedom , CA
408-728-1888
Musket Tools & Parts
S & S Firearms
74-11 Myrtle Ave.
Glendale, NY 11385-7433
718-497-1100